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All of my autographs are kept in a 3-ring binder - I have many of them. All of my pics are kept in a clear, acid free, sheet protector and stored in a safe. When I want to look at them or add to my binder, this is very easy to flip through and look. Everything is in alphabetical order also.

Here are some tips that will help to protect your collection from irreversable damage:

- Keep your collection in the dark in a cool dry place. Heat and humidity contribute to the destruction of paper, especially paper containing acid from wood pulp. Light fades many inks (especially felt-tip) and browns the paper.

- Do not store autographs in a fireproof safe. The humidity level in the safe is high in order to protect documents in a fire. Unfortunatelly that level is too high, and it will eventually damage your autographs.

- Store autographs only in Mylar “D” polyester or cellulose acetate folders, and put them in an archival acid-free box. Never use polyvinyl chloride (PVC) folders. They can be identified by their strong “plastic” odor. Use only acid-free paper insert; the black paper inserts included with some sheet protectors are highly acidic and will destroy your autographs.

- Avoid repairing paper will cellophane (“Scotch”) or masking tape. The adhesive will damage and eventually destroy the paper. If a repair is necessary, use only archival paper mending tissue. Better yet, seek expert help

- Remove paper clips and staples from multipage documents, because they cause rust stains.

- You can usually remove old paper documents glued down to album pages by soaking them in lukewarm water, but don’t use this method on vellum or parchment documents, documents written in aniline ink, or modern documents

- Avoid framing valuable autographs. But if you insists on framing an autograph, use only acid-free matting materials and UF3 Plexiglas or museum glass. The autograph should never be pasted or taped down in any way. Mylar “D” or other acid-free mounting corners should be used to keep the item from shifting in the frame

- Display them away from direct sunlight, fluorescent lighting, and sources of heat (such as radiators)

Best,
Stephan

I do this with my smaller photos, on 8x10 i make 2 pages in my binder (one for info, and across it the autographed photo)

I will put info about the person and what they are known for, also I try to add a few photos at the top of the person.

I store them in a binder, in archival slips.

I usually store my autographs in plastic packets and then inside a hard paper envelope, better to keep them in separate small paper envelopes and then put them altogether in a big hard paper envelope. I, then keep all of this in a clear bag buttoned file. Better if you can manage to keep each of your autograph in a laminated packet or plastic bag, that prevents the ink from dying down.

Dear R.S.V.P.,
Is storing them in an regular photo album okay?
-Trevor

Well for me I like to get photos I believe are 4X6 and I have them in a photo album.

Insertnamehere. wrote:
- Avoid framing valuable autographs. But if you insists on framing an autograph, use only acid-free matting materials and UF3 Plexiglas or museum glass. The autograph should never be pasted or taped down in any way. Mylar “D” or other acid-free mounting corners should be used to keep the item from shifting in the frame

Best,
Stephan

Often, if I want to frame a signed photo, I scan it at high resolution and then re-print it. Usually the re-print looks nearly as good (if not just as good) as the original. The original goes in storage, re-print on display. Also, since I mostly design & print my own photos for signing, if the picture of scanned version is a little blurry, I can neaten it all up by blending the original unsigned picture with the scanned signed version.

Behind glass, it's hard to tell the difference between my original & the re-printed & my autographs remain preserved.

I like to display my collection. The majority of my collection is 8x10 photos I had printed off at Walgreens or CVS. The majority of my frames are black metal frames I bought at Target for $5-$6 a frame. I also hit the clearance sections at Target and Walmart when I'm there for any frames marked down.
I keep them out of direct sunlight. A few have faded over the years...but nothing lasts for ever.

Acid free, archival ring binder folder, acid free sleeves, all photos are mounted on acid free mounts inside the sleeves.
Preservation is a must, presentation, a choice.

R.S.V.P wrote:Here are some tips that will help to protect your collection from irreversable damage:

- Keep your collection in the dark in a cool dry place. Heat and humidity contribute to the destruction of paper, especially paper containing acid from wood pulp. Light fades many inks (especially felt-tip) and browns the paper.

- Do not store autographs in a fireproof safe. The humidity level in the safe is high in order to protect documents in a fire. Unfortunatelly that level is too high, and it will eventually damage your autographs.

- Store autographs only in Mylar “D” polyester or cellulose acetate folders, and put them in an archival acid-free box. Never use polyvinyl chloride (PVC) folders. They can be identified by their strong “plastic” odor. Use only acid-free paper insert; the black paper inserts included with some sheet protectors are highly acidic and will destroy your autographs.

- Avoid repairing paper will cellophane (“Scotch”) or masking tape. The adhesive will damage and eventually destroy the paper. If a repair is necessary, use only archival paper mending tissue. Better yet, seek expert help

- Remove paper clips and staples from multipage documents, because they cause rust stains.

- You can usually remove old paper documents glued down to album pages by soaking them in lukewarm water, but don’t use this method on vellum or parchment documents, documents written in aniline ink, or modern documents

- Avoid framing valuable autographs. But if you insists on framing an autograph, use only acid-free matting materials and UF3 Plexiglas or museum glass. The autograph should never be pasted or taped down in any way. Mylar “D” or other acid-free mounting corners should be used to keep the item from shifting in the frame

- Display them away from direct sunlight, fluorescent lighting, and sources of heat (such as radiators)

Best,
Stephan

Absolutely spot on! Great advice, thanks for posting, enjoyable read.